EUROvision

Apparently this telly phenomenon has been going on for years but I first heard about it just a month ago while changing bed linens with my Glaswegian housekeeping friend. We were swapping stories about what our favourites have been at cinema this last year and programmes we like to watch. I shared my guilty pleasure in America’s Next Top Model and she confessed she is a devoted Eurovision follower every year.

I was intrigued “What is Eurovision?” 

“Oh it’s brilliant!” She explained that it is like X Factor (American Idol = in these parts) but instead is a one night thing every year where all of Europe has a representative come to sing/dance and compete. Loads of people get curry take-aways that night, throw parties with their friends to watch and vote.

 What luck I had heard about it in time for this year’s competition which took place this last Saturday! And how appropriate it was that I was on the continent to watch it because although Britain competes each year, the Scots are not ones to often consider themselves proper Europeans. Many times before heading on my Holland/Belgium/Germany holiday my co-workers and Girlguiding mates would comment “So are you excited to go on your Europe holiday?” It turns out that I live in the British Isles, not Europe – you have to head to the continent to see a proper European country I guess.

That said, Eurovision great fun. Though there was no curry involved, there were plenty of sweets from Germany and Belgium while kicking back on our last night here and watching each country sing and dance.  I have to admit that although there was a completely different tone to the whole thing, the concept did not stray too far from a strange movie I once saw called “The Saddest Music in the World”. While I didn’t finish watching the whole thing I will add my 2 pence about what I fancied about the acts I did see. Italy had good reason to come in 2^nd place, Britain’s boy band was an utter disappointment, it turns out that there was something oddly compelling about Ireland’s famous Jedward twins (though their performance had airs of 3^rd Reich at times) but the all time favourite of the evening has to go to Moldova. I think this video speaks for itself….

“I never think of Moldova.” I mentioned, somewhat embarrassed, to Matt in passing when they were announced to come next. 

Matt and I couldn’t stop laughing while watching it though. In Matt’s words, “This is perfect! I mean, for all I know this is very traditional for them.” Could be a ‘had to be there’ type of thing but at any rate, it was great fun and it added to the list of why it is great to live four seasons in a new place like Europe…er I mean the British Isles….

Oh and congrats to Azerbaijan for taking home the Eurovision glory this year! 

I AMsterdam

Adventuring Amsterdam has been a peculiar experience from the start. It began with an overnight ferry ride starting in the remarkably industrial Newcastle and crossing the North Sea due south.

Have you every ridden a ferry overnight? I haven't. In fact, I haven't even been on a cruise. Before this I always told "cruise people" that I was never much interested in going on a cruise (too claustrophobic, booooring, weird, etc). And after now having done the "poor man's cruise" or as Matt and I call it a "krooz", I can safely say that all of my reservations about doing it have been confirmed. It was one bizarre way of traveling I tell you - kinda like riding an aircraft carrier that has been taken over by Circus Circus. That said, it was not without it's absurd and disorienting charms...

So AMSTERDAM!

What a world! We just got finished exploring it today and it was singular. Not much Dutch charm to it. It is more like it's own country really. A country run by rich, bike riding, hipster young adults. Oh and when I say "bike riding", I mean it. This is a whole level of beach cruisers with front-end baskets than I have ever seen or even heard of! Check this bike parking lot:

The canal cruise recording reported that there are 25,000 bikes parked there with 9,000 overflowing into other areas central to the city. And the city is absolutely run by these beach cruising hipsters I tell you! Aside from trying to adjust to the whole looking for traffic on the right hand side of the street bit. It was terrifying crossing that bike lane! It doesn't help that they allow mo-peds and motorbikes in this lane too. The cyclists run this city.

What an interesting place it was to explore. The historic Rijksmuseum seems so out of place in a city that seems to have more cultural influence from American Apparel than the domestic goddesses of an 18th century Vermeer painting. And to be honest, there is something so irreverent about seeing the Ann Frank house somberly sitting on the banks of a canal that is 24/7 floating frat parties. Still, that is what this place is about and who am I to ask for a different experience?

Just so you believe me about the hipster and frat party bit, I give you the following photos...

Yep. That is a wooden shoe boat.

Still there were some nice wee bits to enjoy...

 

And would you believe us Northern folk got to buy some Dutch sunscreen today? I think I even got a wee bit sunburned and it felt marvelous.

Smacznego (or "Bon Appetit")

Before coming to Edinburgh, I would think about all the different, new experiences I expected to have.  I wondered whether haggis really would be as unappealing as everyone made it out to be (turns out it is actually quite nice). I wondered if I would be able to make friends with Scottish people or if there would be cultural barriers that would prevent it. Among the things I wondered about, there was also a fair amount I expected to experience. For example, I expected going to the supermarket would be even more loathsome than it is was with a car (this indeed turned out to be true). I anticipated that it would be hard to find a lot of the ingredients and foods that I am used to cooking with (this has been the case sometimes but not always*). Etc etc.

One of the great things though about exploring a new place though is that there are loads of things that are great which you don't even expect. One of the biggest ones for me in the Edinburgh chapter of my life is getting to know Polish people, culture and food. When I first interviewed for my housekeeping job, I was asked very matter-of-factly if I knew how to speak Polish. "What a random language to know", I said. "Why no, I don't know if I have even met a Polish person before." The duty manager, a kind but humourless fellow, followed up by telling me that there are a lot of Poles in the Edinburgh area and that half of the housekeeping team was Polish and a handful of the kitchen help were as well. At the time, it didn't matter to me one way or the other (I just cared about getting a job). I had no idea what a cultural adventure I was about to have.

My second day on the job I was paired up with this spunky, wee Polish lass who in spite of having learned English only a couple of years ago could chat it up more than anyone I had ever met. Ever. From the start, we "got on like a house on fire". I don't know how you couldn't with this girl Aneta. Within the first couple weeks of work, we were already swapping favourite cultural dishes with each other. I made her chile con carne and cornbread. She brought me potato dumplings, meat stuffed cabbage, and Polish herbal teas (she is fascinated with me not drinking leaf tea as a religious thing). Even today I have come home with a 15 bags of "Malina + Granat - Herbata Owocowa" (Raspberry and Pomegranat Herbal Tea judging by the pictures on the box) and a handful of Polish biscuits and wafer candies. Her teas and biscuits have yet to disappoint as they have an unrivaled grasp on how to best espouse the wonders of marshmallow.

Last night sealed the deal for me though. For a couple of weeks, Aneta and our Latvian co-worker/friend Agnese and I have been talking about going to Kleofas Cafe, a wee Polish restaurant over on Gorgie Road. It took some scheduling acrobatics to get us all there at the same time but oh was it worth it!

The wonders that the Poles can work with beets, potatoes, cabbage and the like. Never thought to saute pickled beets in butter to make a warm salad but it is one idea to remember.

Though the potato dumplings were unbelievably moist and soft and my pork medallion impeccably savoury with a mushroom sauce they made, the award of best dish would have to go to the dessert cake I got. "Sour Apple and Dark Chocolate Cake". What an inspired combination of  melty bittersweet and sour with the most stimulating texture. I have never eaten a cake that accomplished so much without any frosting. What a delight!

How had I never heard the raving reviews of Polish food before? Surely with the contributions they make to the culinary world, there would be more restaurants around and aisles in supermarkets with their ingredients. I will say though, that this experience is probably a template for something much bigger that I will encounter as I go new places, meet new people throughout my life. I imagine that there are a wealth of people and cultures (and food) I have never really thought about before but has something magnificent to offer.




*Foods I expected would be difficult to find but are not
-Cummin
-Mexican food (there is little variety and not as great/authentic quality but it is there)
-Cinnamon sticks (I didn't expected these to be difficult to find but they are so super cheap here compared to the States)

*Foods I expected would be easy to find but are not
-Ground pepper (they usually only have the peppercorns?)
-Diced green chilis
-Popcorn
-Chocolate chips
-Tofu
-Dried Beans (Black and Pinto beans are the most difficult to find; they can be found but they are quite expensive and only at the biggest supermarkets.)

Rugby v. American Football

As the 6 Nations Rugby matches have descended in the last couple weeks, I can't help but compare the culture that follows with the American football way of life. It isn't surprising probably as both games involve lots of pushing people around, rules that don't make sense to me, and very similar playing equipment.

Rugby ball

American Football

As with all beloved sporting events, there are the fiercely loyal fans painted in team colours that fill the streets on gameday. This livened up our Sunday walk back from church yesterday, as it is usually one of the sleepiest times to be out in the city. In lieu of the burnt orange "hook 'em horns" baseball caps and giant foam fingers we normally see on a UT game day, were Scots kilted up and wearing St. Andrew's flags as capes and rugby shirts to boot. Since they played Ireland, there were also a handful of green felt Irish caps with the fake red hair underneath. It had all the vibes of a proper Texas tailgating party. The pubs were full and overflowing fans into the streets with their pints and ribald cheering. Instead of hitting up pizza or cheap Mexican restaurants at the end, fans filled up the kebab and curry places all over town. The energy was marvelous! And true to Texas football season form, I maintained no interest in the game intself (or even its outcome) but just fed off the excitement of all the enthusiasts. It turns out it is just as fun to be in Edinburgh on a Rugby match day as it is in Austin on Longhorn game day! Thank goodness for the forgiving weather, that really does help me love a proper sporting day.

Can anyone explain to me though, what this swarming in a circle business is about? Matt and I watch a piece of a game on our walk through Inverleith Park this Saturday and this kept happening. Neither of us knew the significance on the rules.

One thing remains to be said though. Rugby is way more bad-A than football. These guys are totally exposed to the hits they get with their unpadded uniforms. And the hits are pretty crazy hard too.

Uncle Sam's Stay-American Survival Kit

*Prepared by the U.S. Department of Not Hating America for Matthew and Catherine Sweeney, Edinburgh, UK*

CONTAINS:
(1) Small American Flag (with stand)
(1) Deck U.S. Presidents Flash Cards (now with President Obama)
(1) Stars and Stripes Glittery Pen
(1) Bag Marie Callender's® Cornbread Mix
(1) Copy of I Am America (And So Can You!) by Stephen Colbert
(1) Bar Waxy American Chocolate

DIRECTIONS: Read I Am America (And So Can You!) for ten minutes anytime you feel un-American. Use glittery pen for taking America-related notes. As needed, supplement reading with chocolate or cornbread consumption, study of U.S. Presidents, or recitation of The Pledge of Allegiance (using included flag).

WARNING: Use only as directed. Do not use in conjuction with Glenn Beck. Rush Limbaugh, Sean Hannity, or other asshole.

A big thanks to T.R. for his insights on how to maintain my "American-ness" amid my U.K. loving lifestyle. A truly inspired (albeit belated) Christmas parcel.

and a happy late Valentine's Day from Edinburgh to you...

Some things transcend the cultural divide. Thanks Edinburgh YSA for giving Matt and I the awkward h.s. dance picture we never got to have.

Save My Holiday!

Before coming here, I knew that Americans had a reputation of working too many hours and not getting enough time off from work to enjoy life and...well...go on a proper "holiday". Indeed, after living here for a wee bit, I think that we do have a thing or two to learn from the British sense of priorities. Holidays are one important part of life.

Although there is a lot to say for a cross country road trip, the U.S. doesn't offer as exotic of holidays in as accessible of a way as the U.K. Afterall, if you live in the heart of Texas, just going somewhere like Las Vegas on a "holiday" would be more expensive and involved than taking an EasyJet from Edinburgh to Amsterdam or even Cyprus. Still, I do think that it comes down to cultural priorities. I am not sure what ours are on but they aren't nearly as keen on a decent holiday.

Exhibit A:
The basic rights of a UK full-time employee. Yep. That's right a MINIMUM of 28 days paid annual leave each year. I love how it is called an "entitlement". That is exactly how it is looked at.
In the U.S., what is the "entitlement" of annual leave? NONE. Yep. That's right. Apparently we are known as the "No Vacation Nation."

Example? I work 2-3 days a week as an hourly (minimum wage - at least the exchange rate is in my favour though) housekeeper. I get more paid days off as an employee than any job I have ever had. Ever. School district, the city, private employers.

Are you ready for Exhibit B?:
There are network telly programmes here dedicated to get the most (and what you deserve) out of your holiday. I present to you Save My Holiday (not sure if it will play for you overseas folk) from BBC 1 Scotland. Ironically, I discovered this programme whilst making beds and dusting furniture at the hotel where I work. How to describe this programme...?

It is a documentary with two hosts who follow different Brits that phone in with issues about their holiday. From the intro to the programme:
"We're going to coach you in the art of complaining...so you get what you paid for. Don't put up with second best."

Problems range from cleanliness or safety issues in hotel rooms, sub-par food at the hotel, misrepresented amenities at destinations, and what turns out to often be the most dramatic at times, bouts of food poisoning. Here is one story from "episode 7" (still available to watch for 6 more days on BBC 1 Scotland). Two friends are on holiday at a resort and they start to feel ill on the second day.

Host: "....that's when their holiday...hit the skids." <cue in super super dramatic music-kind of like "America's Most Wanted") On only their second day their paradise holiday had taken a depressing nose dive. Shortly afterwards, Sharon was also shot down with the same bug." ---- pans to a zooming view of a toilet (a la "CSI")

There are lots of other great moments "Save My Holiday" has to offer. And if you are ever in the market for tips on how to maximize your entitled holiday days, I would heartily recommend watching an episode or two before planning your trip. That way, you won't end up like Sharon and her friend - needing to phone into "Save My Holiday" for help. You will be a savey consumer that knows how to make the most of those 28 days a year you get.

And to think the Scots thought of it first...

While running up The Royal Mile in the last few weeks, I have noticed this sign outside of one of the touristy kilt gift shops...

It is a wonder that Deseret Book didn't think of it first. Such a reasonable price to clear the conscience of one who can't be bothered to fulfill their Mormon geneaology duty. If this marketing ploy leaks out though, I think that the post-General Conference adverts are going to be all over this as early as Spring session.

This is England

Can't recommend it to one and all, the language may just be too unforgivable for that. Still, I can't say I regret seeing it. Three cheers for Matt fanagaling an override on our IP address location - Netflix instant queue prevails over the pond! And it gave us some good semi-local flavour tonight for some birthday "night at the movies" on William Street.

If you can't abide the language and the not so wee bit of violence, let me just give you the best parts here. Play these clips consecuatively. Even if you never been a rude boy or spent a good season of your life being keen on anything The Specials, I think that there is still something in these 5+ minutes for you to appreciate.

Scot's Poetry!

And just in Time for Burns Supper Season! Turns out that one of the quickest ways to shirk off a lonely, homesick bug is to get involved in a good volunteering programme....or 2...or 3... Of course, helping out with the Rainbow Girlguides has been great fun on Tuesday nights but I needed to get my fix of library work. So I am now a volunteer "IT Buddy" as well as a volunteer with the Read Aloud programme through the Edinburgh Public Library. The former position will pair me up with older folk who need a wee bit more help with their technology skills. I work one on one with them to help with anything from learning how one operates a mouse effectively to setting up and using an email account. I am told that "patience" is key but all the same I think that it sounds like a great chance to get to know these unique people that make up Edinburgh.

I just finished with the Read Aloud orientation tonight and I am excited. The programme is set up for a volunteer or two to go with a library staff member into care/nursing homes to read people with memory problems different poems. There is a theme for each visit, sometimes props and pictures as well as conversation prompts to get people responding to the poetry. We practiced tonight, and although I stuck with the trusty e.e. cummings poems I found, it was marvelous to hear some real authentic Scottish poetry from these different members of my current community.

One of the poems read tonight called "Kidsong/Bairnsong" by Liz Lochhead conjured up some interesting conversation about the old "Scot" language. Click here if you want the poetress herself to read it to you (the poem bit starts at about 2:10). This poem is "a wee bilingual poem" as it is first written in Scot and then in "English", with a stanza of reflection at the end about trying to write poetry in an unnatural forced language that is not your own (in this case, "English"). Many tonight pointed out that school children were beaten by their headmasters and poets frowned upon at one time for speaking or writing in Scot. I realized tonight, after some real good flavour of this rich language and culture, what a sad world it would be though if this unique way of expression had been lost through these oppressions. It indeed takes a Utahn/Texan like myself some time to get my mind around the descriptions and follow the narratives but no matter how little I understand, the ride is great fun.

And another favourite of mine from the evening was read by a dear older lady sitting next to me. She stood up and read this very animated poem, playing up her brogue quite a lot. Indeed, in some ways this poem is hard to follow but truly I think every parent can relate, even if they don't speak proper Scot.

A Dug! A Dug!

by Billy Keyes

Hey, Daddy, wid ye get us a dug ?
A big broon alsation ur a wee white pug ?
Ur a skinny wee terrier, ur a big fat collie?
Aw, daddy,get us a dug.  Will yi ?

Whit! An' whose dug'll it be when it durties the flerr,
An' wets the carpet and messes the sterr?
Its me ur yer mammy'll be tane furra mug.
Away oot'n play.  Yer no getting a dug.

But daddy thur gi'en them away
Down therr at the RSPCA.
Yu'll get wan fur nothin, so ye will.
Aw. Daddy, get us a dug, Will ye?

Dji hear um?  Oan aboot dugs again?
Ah think that yins goat dugs'n the brain.
Ah know whit yu'll get: a skite oan the lug
If ah hear ony merr aboot this bloomin dug.

Aw, Daddy, it widny be dear tae keep
An'ah'd make it a basket fur it tae sleep.
An'ah'd take it fur runs away ower the hull.
Aw, Daddy, get us a dug.  Will ye?

A doan't think thurs embdy like you:
Yi could wheedle the twist oot a flamin' corkscrew.
Noo! Get doon aff my neck.  Gies nane a yur hugs.
Aw right.  THAT'S ANUFF. Ah'll get yi a dug.


Aw Daddy.  A dug. A dug.

English Speaking?

It's "Programme" not "Program"

It's "Enquiry" not "Inquiry"

It's "Flavour" not "Flavor

"Colour" not "Color"

"Humour" not "Humor"

"Favour" not "Favor"

It's "Centre" not "Center"

"Enrol" not "Enroll"

and perhaps the most surprising..

It's "Tyre" not "Tire"

Land of the "Weegies"

The other day I went half an hour earlier for my morning swim at the Dalry Swim Centre. The Welshman who I almost always swim alongside in morning noticed and asked me why the routine change. I told my friend that I was going to go visit Glasgow that day and wanted to use all the daylight I could for exploring the sites. Without skipping a beat he said, "I went to Glasgow for a laugh....and came back in stitches!" Right away I recognized that as a joke and a good one too. I even laughed in time. It was a proud moment that I could follow the cultural nuances of the humour in it. Three cheers for anyone who can keep up with why this is funny. I'll give you a hint, Glasgow is considered to be the Baltimore of the UK. ***Got some artsy and cool stuff going for it but kind of a rough place to spend a holiday.

Still we had a great time. Indeed it included a few laughs a long the way - but luckily no stitches....

Thanks to E&K for their Christmas gift (a Lonely Planet guide book to Great Britain) to us last year, Matt and I were able to find our way around lots of cool sites on the walking tour outlined. Just as expected there was some pretty great architecture to take in,

a unique cathedral with loads of interesting stained glass windows (read: art history nirvana for me),

a neocropolis that offers some spooky lovely sites of the city,

*here's my "Good Morning Glasgow" shot*.

A real highlight came when Matt and I took tea at one of the Charles Rennie Mackintosh Willow Room teahouses. Think that it takes an art history snob to know what I am talking about? I submit that it doesn't. Do you like Mr. Frank Lloyd Wright? Of course you do. Everyone does. Glasgow's own Mackintosh was the predecessor for Mr. Wright. To be a bit frank, in some ways, I kind of think that Frank Lloyd Wright is just a really remarkable architect who ripped off an even more remarkable designer. Still I love them both and the teahouse was all that I hoped it would be.

Couldn't get over these delightfully rough sugar cubes. I had fennel tea and Matt had fresh peppermint. We both agreed they were marvelous.

Indeed, we also found time to take a trip over to one of the many modern art museums in town. There was this terrific installation exhibit on the ground floor that we had a great time wandering through. One piece had this great quote about the elusive nature of humour. I couldn't get over how profound it was, especially in the context of Glasgow:

For any modern/contemporary art history nerds, the following plaque may be of interest. I wish I could have had this quote handy on the Centre de Pompidou tour I took the Paris study abroad students on.

 

I am sure there is much more to see but there is only so much one can do on foot. Perhaps we will save it for another day. This trip, however, got 2 thumbs up, even on the bleakest of January days.

***We did find our Lonely Planet's summation of the place to be true. It was something to think about whilst trodding about:

"With a CV that includes City of Architecture and City of Culture, you'd think Glasgow would be a shoe-in for the 2014 Commonwealth games (this book is a bit outdated - it will be the hosting the games). But this is also the city whose inhabitants have the highest choleterol in the EU, and in which there's still a simmering sectarianism between the Roman Catholic and the Prodestant residents. Consider that Glasgow produced both the comedian Billy Connelly and tea-mongul Sir Thomas Lipton, and you'll soon learn what a complex and contrary place it can be.

Part of the problem is Edinburgh. While Glasgow is Scotland's largest city it is pipped for capital by the more sophisticated city to the east. And a (mostly) friendly rivalry has existed ever since. Folk from Edinburgh tease Glaswegians (or Weegies) for their thick, working class accents; you may be saying 'Hun?' more than you expected in an English-speaking city."